Ruger LCP Max .380

[blueboss]

I tried digging up the weapons ammo thread that more than likely had info about the Ruger LCP Max.

Anyway, any thoughts?


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[KentuckyWildcat]

I assume the max holds more rounds?

I have one of the first LCP. Maybe the first? Can't say I am real familiar with those models. It shoots. Nothing fancy. Firm trigger pull. I like it just fine for what it is. I paid $150 for it IIRC. From a buddy needing the cash.

[dan_bgblue]

I am no help as I am a striker fire guy, unless it is a 1911.

[blueboss]

I assume the max holds more rounds?

I have one of the first LCP. Maybe the first? Can't say I am real familiar with those models. It shoots. Nothing fancy. Firm trigger pull. I like it just fine for what it is. I paid $150 for it IIRC. From a buddy needing the cash.

I’m thinking pocket protector, grab and go to the store, dinner, errands, out and about type thing.10+1.

$350 w/ lock box, gun lock, pinky extender, pocket holster, quick loader, only one clip.


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[CitizenBBN]

I had a LCP, just sold it. It's a good gun and I'm a huge fan of Ruger. Would have kept it but trying to not have duplicates to my duplicates, lol.

My most basic issue with it is that it's in 380, and now you can get comparably or equally small sized guns in 9mm. I just prefer the 9mm to the 380 for about any use if it's an option. I still have a 380, but it's a 6+1 and is a true pocket pistol smaller than the LCP.

I got the Sig P365X, it's a 9mm and it's 12+1, and is only slightly bigger than the LCP (wider most notably). It's 6"x1.1"w x 4.8" with a 3.1" barrel. It is 17.8 oz

the Ruger LCP 380 Max is only 0.81"w x 5.17" x 4.12". It is MUCH lighter at about 11 ounces (for me it's not a big deal, I usually carry a S&W 60-9 that is all steel and weighs twice that). It's smaller no doubt, but for me it wasn't enough to make a real difference. .3" in width is a little less than 3/8ths. The other sizes for me are less of an issue but the width is a bit more but I carry inside the waistband on this gun not in the pocket and there it really isn't a difference that matters.

For that tradeoff you get 2 more rounds than the max and also they are notably more powerful.

I"m also a big fan of some of the carry 45s on the style of the Springfield XD-S, but I'm trying to standardize my ammo somewhat so i'm going with the 9mm and 38/357 for handgun calibers.

Sorry I know this is a bit of a hijack, but that's my overall take on it and why I just didn't hang onto the LCP, even though I like the gun.

As for the gun itself it's a good fit for me, was comfortable, and I like everything about Ruger but their triggers can be a little rough. This one wasn't bad at all and better than the LCR (their 357 revolver). Other than that, which is not a big deal on that kind of gun (a carry gun, not competition shooting), it's a great gun.

Of course Ruger has the EC9 as well, which is in between the LCP and the Sig, but much smaller capacity (single stack 7+1 I think). The Sig is a double stack so it's wider, but 12+1 concealed is tough to beat.

If I was going with the EC9 I'd just go 45 with the XD-S. Same capacity and basic size, much more power.

Doubt that helps, but that's my overview in that category. But you can't go wrong with Ruger. They make rock solid guns in every category. I have a Ruger Standard (their first gun) and that thing is a tack driver of a 22 and a far superior design for a 22 auto b/c of the lack of a fully moving slide (it's a bitch to field strip though), and a 10/22 rifle that is great, and I've had several others. They're all great quality, just question of what you like.

[suncat05]

Although ammunition technology has grown in leaps and bounds in the last 15+ years, I personally never carry anything smaller than a 9 mm. There's nothing wrong with a .380, that's just me and my experience seeing gunshot wounds over the years on the job.
I bought a Ruger LC9 for my younger daughter as a graduation present when she graduated from nursing school, which started my Ruger handgun experience. After that, I bought 2 Ruger EC9s for the Boss and myself, especially for me to carry off duty while I was still on the job. I then bought another EC9s for my oldest daughter in Louisville. 7+1 capacity, very slim profile, very light. So light that honestly you'll forget you have it on your person. Accurate, reliable, and with the pinky extender for the magazines, it will fit in your hand very well. And the trigger is very smooth. Mine is, for sure.
I was not a big fan of Ruger handguns before the LC9 & the EC9s came along. They were too big and very bulky and heavy. The LC9 & the EC9s are huge improvements in the Ruger line of handguns. I carry mine everywhere. Now, let's face it, yes, they're accurate, I can attest to that because of having to qualify with it to carry it off-duty. But it's made to carry and use for up close and personal encounters, which I hope none of us here ever has to experience. As long as you take care of it, keep it clean and lubed, and use good quality self-defense ammunition for it, it will work as it should for its intended purpose.
I liked seeing Ruger come out with the LCP Max & the EC9 Max. I've only actually seen one in a gun case at a gun shop, but you can't go wrong with more capacity.

[KentuckyWildcat]

I’m thinking pocket protector, grab and go to the store, dinner, errands, out and about type thing.10+1.

I don't carry often, but I occasionally carry this in my pocket. It is handy to grab and go.

[blueboss]

Bought it… thanks everyone, for your input, tutorials/testimonials, opinions and advice.

I like it, going out tomorrow to run a few rounds through it to break it in to move up to hollow points.


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[KentuckyWildcat]

Congrats. Hope you enjoy it and come back later with a review.

[blueboss]

Gun shop recommended running a few clips of target loads through the weapon before loaded the hollow points…something about breaking it in (for lack of better term) and why waste the more expensive hollow points to do so.

Explain this “breaking it in” please.

Or is it more about just getting aquatinted with the gun.

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[suncat05]

Gun shop recommended running a few clips of target loads through the weapon before loaded the hollow points…something about breaking it in (for lack of better term) and why waste the more expensive hollow points to do so.

Explain this “breaking it in” please.

Or is it more about just getting aquatinted with the gun.

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That "breaking in" is finding out what ammunition feeds best in it, and actually holding the gun and seeing & feeling what it does when you pull the trigger. All of the moving parts do what they're supposed to do, and you actually see and feel the gun in your hand, felt recoil, where do the spent shells kick out to, trigger reset, and your first impressions of the gun in action.

[CitizenBBN]

Gun shop recommended running a few clips of target loads through the weapon before loaded the hollow points…something about breaking it in (for lack of better term) and why waste the more expensive hollow points to do so.

Explain this “breaking it in” please.

Or is it more about just getting aquatinted with the gun.

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My .02.

I hope they are talking about getting used to the gun and simply choosing cheaper ammo to do so b/c otherwise that is utter nonsense.

The gun is made of steel. It will not "break in" after just a few magazines of ammo. The only thing that will adjust on a gun will be the springs (on the bolt and on the magazine) and the actual contacting moving parts (which are pretty minimal in modern semi autos surprisingly) and that is not nearly enough to make any difference at all.

The primary inherent difference between "target loads", which I presume they mean FMJ, and hollow points, is the grain weight and shape of the bullet itself. Nothing in that gun will change the way the bullet itself interacts with that gun whatsoever unless you are in combat and put 10,000 rounds through it and actually begin to wear the parts. Unless it is a service weapon and 30 years old, that won't happen.

The difference between FMJ and hollow points in any semi auto is about how they feed, which is all about the physics and geometry of the magazine well and the feed tube ramp b/c of the radically different nose shape, at least that is the main issue. Some guns are great with hollow points b/c the feed ramp is angled right to the magazine well angle and they load great. Some guns hate hollow points. Some like certain nose shapes, some will eat anything.

A Beretta 92FS for example is well known for being picky about ammo. The nose shape is a big part of it. The other is the grain weight and powder load ratio, b/c some slides etc need more power, some don't, but as far as the specific difference between hollow points and "target loads" it is basically the shape of the bullet and secondarily the grain weight.

The Beretta is picky. My Uzi will run any 9mm round you want, and when it is done it will reach into your range bag and run all your 380 and 45 just to show off.

But there is no "break in" period for that part of the ammunition. With a revolver and with the trigger mechanisms there can be some wear that is "good" which wears down tooling marks and other slight imperfections in manufacturing, making the gun action smoother over time, but most modern semi autos are built in ways where that is fairly minimal compared to older revolvers.

For example you can do a "trigger job" on a nice S&W revolver and that will involve in part taking some 0000 steel wool to the parts to smooth them. I have known people to do that to even a Glock, and it is possible, but very touchy compared to a revolver and largely not needed. Most relevant, you won't get any such wear or other changes running 50 or 100 or 1,000 rounds through it regardless of ammo choice.

IMO most gun store guys are far too reliant on "old wives tales". The best advice is use cheaper ammo when learning any weapon, or shooting at the range, b/c they are simply cheaper than more expensive self defense loads.

CAVEAT: make sure the loads you carry run great, I mean GREAT, through the gun. Does no good to run 500 rounds of round nose FMJ through it, then load hollow points and find out at the very most wrong time they don't feed well.

IMO it's worth the money to run 50 rounds or 100 of what you want to carry through the gun, or more, to make sure you like it and the gun likes it. What's it worth to spend another $20 or $50 on ammo to know FOR SURE it loves the ammo you carry in it?

Ideally I'd run at least 200 rounds through it. Run 100 target loads to get a feel for it, then run 100 rounds (or at least 50 or 60) of what you will carry to make sure the gun is happy.

Also google message board chats about it and ammo brands, those guys have likely done a lot of the testing for you. Will save money and time.

Or carry an Uzi like I do. Scares the crap out of people so you don't have to talk to them all day, you will find dramatically shorter lines for yourself at fast food and other places, and it will shoot rocks if you run out of ammo the thing is so tolerant of ammo. Probably has to do with the 5 pound solid CNC receiver bolt that just makes ammo do as it's told.

[CitizenBBN]

That "breaking in" is finding out what ammunition feeds best in it, and actually holding the gun and seeing & feeling what it does when you pull the trigger. All of the moving parts do what they're supposed to do, and you actually see and feel the gun in your hand, felt recoil, where do the spent shells kick out to, trigger reset, and your first impressions of the gun in action.

I wrote the long version, but this is the very outstanding short version IMO.

Learning what you like and what the gun likes. Not all guns like all ammo. Heck, my GF's Beretta loves Blazer, but the same grain weight and every other spec of other brands will stove pipe or FTE.

But I disagree with the "break in" notion. I do think there needs to be range time as you describe, but it's not about some mysterious change that happens to the gun. Their description to our illustrious friend on here makes it sound like seasoning a cast iron skillet, and guns since the early 1900s are made of sterner stuff than that. lol.

Now some of those early top break revolvers? Yeah they had a "break in period", if by that you mean "how many rounds you shoot before they break in your hand".

[KentuckyWildcat]

I've heard people mention barrel break in. Never really knew what they meant.

[Darrell KSR]

Gun shop recommended running a few clips of target loads

The difference...the magazine well ... angled right to the magazine well



IMO most gun store guys are far too reliant on "old wives tales"...

What is this magazine well of which you speak? Do your handguns read?

... I mentally checked out of that gun store's advice when they said clips...

[dan_bgblue]

My .02.

IMO, that is .25 worth for sure.

[suncat05]

What is this magazine well of which you speak? Do your handguns read?

... I mentally checked out of that gun store's advice when they said clips...

Yeah, I am in total agreement with Darrell on this. I see or hear the word 'clip' in reference to any gun, period, and I just move on.

[CitizenBBN]

What is this magazine well of which you speak? Do your handguns read?

... I mentally checked out of that gun store's advice when they said clips...

Yep. Though I will say I know numerous veterans and others who are very knowledgeable who say "clips" instead of "Magazine". I suppose it's just a term that has shifted meaning even though the technical definition of each is very different.

[CitizenBBN]

I've heard people mention barrel break in. Never really knew what they meant.

I suppose theoretically there could be micro abrasions in a grooved barrel that would be smoothed out with rounds going through it, but it would only be to clear out micro abrasions along the cut surface of the grooves IMO.

these are hard barrels, and with modern CNC milling they are extremely precise and will have minimal flaws and abrasions.

Regardless, anything you would alter in the gun in 50 or 100 rounds versus putting 10,000 through it wont' be much. Just like how on a S&W revolver firing it 100 times won't do much to smooth the trigger part surfaces either, thus the need to very finely hone them.

Some of this may be holdovers of older guns, like "breaking in" the trigger of a revolver, where yes you can over time wear those parts a bit smoother and wear out tooling marks etc and the action will become smoother over time, or maybe barrels made with older technology that would have more burrs or slight imperfections in the grooving.

But overall it takes a fair amount of rounds to start to wear a barrel, esp. in modern guns. I've seen them, I've seen them where the grooving is very well worn, but they are on 50+ year old guns too. We're talking thousands of rounds, not a hundred or so.

It's always good to go shoot the gun, and get a feel for it, and make sure about what ammo works, etc. and Im' sure doing that may smooth out any small flaws here and there, but those should not be significant on most modern made weapons from quality makers. Their tolerances are already very very good.

[blueboss]

Yeah, I am in total agreement with Darrell on this. I see or hear the word 'clip' in reference to any gun, period, and I just move on.

Gotta be better than bullet holder thingy.


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[blueboss]

That "breaking in" is finding out what ammunition feeds best in it, and actually holding the gun and seeing & feeling what it does when you pull the trigger. All of the moving parts do what they're supposed to do, and you actually see and feel the gun in your hand, felt recoil, where do the spent shells kick out to, trigger reset, and your first impressions of the gun in action.

Given the context of the conversation that’s kind of what I was thinking… more of a familiarization period than break in.

The owner referenced not wasting more expensive ammo while figuring it out and getting broke in. He was probably referring to me getting broke in with it, than the gun getting broke in.

While I have owned guns of some sort or another my whole life, I would not consider my self a gun enthusiast. In fact other than my shotguns and .22’s I’ve owned, I bet I haven’t fired a hundred rounds through all of the hand guns that I’ve owned combined.


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[dan_bgblue]

Gotta be better than bullet holder thingy.


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Love hearing (reading) these technical terms.

[CitizenBBN]

Gotta be better than bullet holder thingy.


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Ah, the BHT. Be sure the MST inside of it (metal springy thingy) is still really strong....

[blueboss]

Love hearing (reading) these technical terms.

Which button do I push to make the bullets shoot out?


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[suncat05]

Gotta be better than bullet holder thingy.


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[suncat05]

Ah, the BHT. Be sure the MST inside of it (metal springy thingy) is still really strong....

[suncat05]

Which button do I push to make the bullets shoot out?


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[BigBluePappy]

Which button do I push to make the bullets shoot out?


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The Bang Switch?
Generally activated by your booger hook...

[suncat05]

The Bang Switch?
Generally activated by your booger hook...