Super duper baby step, super-old DSLR camera plan

[CGWildcat]

Great stuff in here between you both. I'm considering adding an old film camera to my bounty to relive my youth. Anyone have any laying around and you need help cleaning out?

[Darrell KSR]

As promised (as I threatened?), I'm bumping the thread.

I'm attending the Birmingham Legion v Atlanta United preseason game Saturday with my son. (Side note--Birmingham Legion signed one of his teammates that he played club ball with; he's 19 as is my son, and lives in Dallas now. Or, I guess, he lives in Birmingham again now after being signed). Anyway...

I didn't bring the EOS 40d to Auburn; haven't taken any photos with it yet. I didn't tell you what happened, but the first camera I got was a dud (I think). I can't get it powered on. The price I paid was so low, that it was ok, because it came with a 28-135mm lens that was easily worth what I paid for the whole thing, but it irritated me that the camera didn't work, as it was represented that nothing was wrong with it, other than it needed a battery. I bought two new batteries, a new charger, replaced the "button cell" battery, did my best to see if there were any switches that needed cleaning, were stuck, etc., and could not find anything wrong. Except it didn't work.

But I found a better camera. This one has 1,625 shutter actuations, and was sold to me by a California cinematographer, camera and electrical specialist, and took great care of her equipment. Won cinematographer awards for her work in two television series, etc. Just think it's a cool piece of history added to the camera (which is also an EOS 40d). Camera looks absolutely mint, came in original box, etc.

Anyway, I checked it, and it powered right up fine. Now I have two cameras--one working, one not--and four batteries, and two chargers (I bought two batteries and a charger separately). I guess I need to get a battery grip so that I can take advantage of all the batteries.

I have no idea how to use it. I guess I'll start figuring out Saturday.

[Darrell KSR]

Also--remember, the main reason I got this camera was mainly for the next 3½ years to take photos of my son playing soccer (I'm out of the video recording business). Doesn't have to be great photos, but better than my camera was doing, which was really struggling badly. Of course, it was worse under the lights, and I know that will be an issue no matter what, but I'm hoping that I can get a few more decent shots to put on internet, etc. and share with family.

[dan_bgblue]

I have no idea how to use it. I guess I'll start figuring out Saturday.

And the verdict is?

[Darrell KSR]

And the verdict is?

Dan, I didn't have time to try to figure out anything. So I set it to AI-Servo (I think that's what it was called) and the Sports setting. Used the 28-135mm lens. Of course, it was pretty darn great conditions, game kicked off at 3:30pm CT and sun was out for most of the game. But I am so happy with what I saw. I took less than 50 shots--some pregame stuff, mainly focusing on the one player we knew, a couple of crowd photos across the stadium (with the Atlanta United fan group, the flags, etc.), and then game action when Jaden came into the game.

I know they aren't what somebody that knows what they're doing would do, but this is exactly--exactly--what I was looking for. Crisp, clear pictures of players in action. I'll start a thread and post photos in it in a few.

[dan_bgblue]

I am glad you are pleased. The key to photography starts with light then everything else is adjusted for the image in the great light.

[KeithKSR]

The native onboard pop up flash will make using the 35-80 usable indoors. Set everything on automatic and choose the zoom level and snap away. Here is a link to a good alternative to the excellent but very high priced Canon Speedlite hot shoe flash units that will give you excellent lighting out to 40 or 50 feet if needed and if you set it and hte camera to automatic it does all the work of choosing power levels for you and also allows you to use indirect lighting for a softer effect. Adorama is a very high end camera house, so one can buy with confidence

https://www.adorama.com/us%20%20%201...SABEgJGS_D_BwE

I bought my Canon T3i from there about a decade ago. They had the best deal on them when I purchased the camera.

[KeithKSR]

Dan, I didn't have time to try to figure out anything. So I set it to AI-Servo (I think that's what it was called) and the Sports setting. Used the 28-135mm lens. Of course, it was pretty darn great conditions, game kicked off at 3:30pm CT and sun was out for most of the game. But I am so happy with what I saw. I took less than 50 shots--some pregame stuff, mainly focusing on the one player we knew, a couple of crowd photos across the stadium (with the Atlanta United fan group, the flags, etc.), and then game action when Jaden came into the game.

I know they aren't what somebody that knows what they're doing would do, but this is exactly--exactly--what I was looking for. Crisp, clear pictures of players in action. I'll start a thread and post photos in it in a few.

Did you try the continuous shooting mode? It is great for sports action shots.

[Darrell KSR]

Did you try the continuous shooting mode? It is great for sports action shots.

I'm not sure, Keith. Maybe. It took several pictures if I held the shutter button down.

But I really haven't looked up anything on it, so I really wasn't doing much intentionally. Whatever happened was by happenstance.

[dan_bgblue]

you mentioned that the camera came with the original box. Did it also come with the original user manual?

[Darrell KSR]

Unfortunately, no, but I do have it on PDF.

I printed like 65 pages from it I intended to read, but I haven't gotten... Screenshot_20200210-213148.jpg

[Darrell KSR]

Just fwiw, my attempts at the Kentucky v Samford Softball game last Friday night were abysmal.

First, the softball viewing area for fans, which is where I went, had nets in front.

I tried to manipulate to manual focusing so it would not focus on the netting, but it stunk. Then I went to an adjacent parking deck unencumbered by the netting but forgot I was still on manual focus and took bad shots there. Then I finally realized, but almost ready to go, and I was just too far away to get good action photos. I need to practice at nighttime baseball games.

[dan_bgblue]

Using the equipment you currently have you may not get any usable night images at the ball games. One tip I have about shooting thru the netting at ball games is to walk up within 10 to 20 feet of the netting and focus on the action on the field. The netting disappears completely even in the daylight.

[Darrell KSR]

Yup, I just wanted something bad to kinda get used to it. I don't think I even rose to that level. Equipment is most of it, and I think I knew that but I should've done something better anyway.

[Darrell KSR]

I love Primes. Many folks do not as one has to change lenses to fit the conditions and the need. It can be a hassle. Just think of being at the beach and the sand is dry and the wind is blowing 40 mph and you have to open up the guts to your camera to change lenses in the open. I have a soft cloth bag that I put everything in with the drawstring on the inside of the bag. Pull the string tight enough to keep out the dust,sand etc, change the lens by feel and voila, I am ready for the new situation. Again some folks do not want to carry a bag with lenses or just one lens in it with them. They want to just stick a lens on the camera, leave the house, take the pictures, come home, transfer the images to the computer, and put up the camera with lens still mounted.

I haven't been shooting anything...which is probably absurd, as there's been nothing else to do, so I really should have gone places just to practice. Anyway, it reminded me about this thread.

I took a look at "best sports lenses" and some of those are more than I pay for my cars. So I thought about this post, found it, and was wondering what you'd recommend for this one-trick pony use:

* Going to an OUTDOOR NIGHT soccer game. Maybe 40-50 yards from the subject (that's pretty close; hard to get much closer unless you're on the field). No more than 75 yards maximum. So all shots from 40-75 yards. Sometimes in daylight. Outdoor games generally with excellent stadium lights, but sometimes not, so consider it poor lighting.

Canon EOS 40D
40-75 yards
Inadequate lighting
Moving action

Prime lens perfectly fine. Other lenses for anything else; just a one-trick pony for this purpose only.

And just to add some fun to the thread...here are a couple of the photos I took at the soccer game I mentioned back in February. Before it got dark, they were fine. Photos of a former teammate of my son in his professional debut in soccer at age 18.

[Darrell KSR]

More

[Darrell KSR]

Pre-game.

[Darrell KSR]

He didn't get it, but thought he was going to. He's cat-quick (and left-footed, so the kicker was dangerously exposed on this pass).

[Darrell KSR]

Just FWIW, I'll be happy with these photos for day games when my son plays. But night photos are a different story, so I'm looking for a lens that can accommodate those.

[KeithKSR]

I noticed the image is much clearer without the wider angle shots. There are modes that will allow you to choose how the camera reacts based on what you are shooting. For sports where there is movement you use the AI Servo mode. https://support.usa.canon.com/kb/ind...1989&actp=LIST

The lens you have may be fine for night use at games. Here is a chart that gives some settings recommendations for night use for a variety of shots:
https://www.cameraexperts.us/canon-e...otography.html

When the 40D first came out I used my niece’s camera to shoot her wedding. Photos turned out great! I’ve shot some weddings before for family and had good shots, but this was another level. They are an excellent camera.

My camera is great for photography novices, like me. It has a lot of modes that take care of the grunt work and lets me do a lot of the point and shoot stuff. Here is a document that mentions the modes it has: https://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/T3I/T3IMENUS.HTM

[dan_bgblue]

Arghh. Toughest thing to do is recommend lenses for low light, apertures, ISO settings, shutter speeds, and focal length, from a seat anywhere other than at the venue right next to or behind the viewfinder of the camera. 85 mm f 1.8 lens ($350.00 new) or a 70-200 mm f 2.8 zoom lens ($1,300.00 new)

You can rent one or both of those lenses from Wolf Camera or Ritz Camera in Birmingham for about $20.00 per day each. Negotiate with them to pick up the lenses right before you go to the soccer match with an agreement to return them when they open the next morning. Might get a good rate doing it that way. If the 85 mm gets you close enough to the action on the field and you are satisfied with being limited to that focal length for $350.00, then you know it will suit you in the long haul. If the 70-200mm is more to your liking then you know to save your pennies and buy one for Christmas.

Camera settings for either lens would be something like wide open aperture, either 1.8 or 2.8, 800 ISO, and let the camera choose the shutter speed. Set mode at AI servo and squeeze the button

[Darrell KSR]

I noticed the image is much clearer without the wider angle shots. There are modes that will allow you to choose how the camera reacts based on what you are shooting. For sports where there is movement you use the AI Servo mode. https://support.usa.canon.com/kb/ind...1989&actp=LIST

The lens you have may be fine for night use at games. Here is a chart that gives some settings recommendations for night use for a variety of shots:
https://www.cameraexperts.us/canon-e...otography.html

When the 40D first came out I used my niece’s camera to shoot her wedding. Photos turned out great! I’ve shot some weddings before for family and had good shots, but this was another level. They are an excellent camera.

My camera is great for photography novices, like me. It has a lot of modes that take care of the grunt work and lets me do a lot of the point and shoot stuff. Here is a document that mentions the modes it has: https://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/T3I/T3IMENUS.HTM

Arghh. Toughest thing to do is recommend lenses for low light, apertures, ISO settings, shutter speeds, and focal length, from a seat anywhere other than at the venue right next to or behind the viewfinder of the camera. 85 mm f 1.8 lens ($350.00 new) or a 70-200 mm f 2.8 zoom lens ($1,300.00 new)

You can rent one or both of those lenses from Wolf Camera or Ritz Camera in Birmingham for about $20.00 per day each. Negotiate with them to pick up the lenses right before you go to the soccer match with an agreement to return them when they open the next morning. Might get a good rate doing it that way. If the 85 mm gets you close enough to the action on the field and you are satisfied with being limited to that focal length for $350.00, then you know it will suit you in the long haul. If the 70-200mm is more to your liking then you know to save your pennies and buy one for Christmas.

Camera settings for either lens would be something like wide open aperture, either 1.8 or 2.8, 800 ISO, and let the camera choose the shutter speed. Set mode at AI servo and squeeze the button

Thanks, VERY good advice from both posts.

[VirginiaCat]

I purchased and A7ii (Sony) before we went to Hawaii in 2018. Full frame. Only had the stock lens. Worked great but wanted more. Also discovered I dd not like to change lenses .

So, for our Med Cruise I upgrade to the Sony fe 24-105 f4 lens. Great general purpose lens. The Full Frame effectively doubles that zoom.

[Darrell KSR]

I'm so bad at this, I don't even know the lingo.

I made the mistake inside a store (wasn't even a camera store, but a big box store that sold cameras) of saying something about a "zoom" lens, and apparently I even had that part wrong.

[dan_bgblue]

One other point I would like to share is that any lens that can satisfy you light gathering needs at night will work splendidly in the daytime. The limiting factor of the lens is how big is the maximum opening on the business end of the lens. The bigger the hole the better the lens for night work, but that same lens will allow you to shrink the hole to almost a pinpoint, f 32 for daytime work.

[dan_bgblue]

I'm so bad at this, I don't even know the lingo.

I made the mistake inside a store (wasn't even a camera store, but a big box store that sold cameras) of saying something about a "zoom" lens, and apparently I even had that part wrong.

Back in the day when I invested in my first camera that had lots of settings and interchangeable lenses I spent some time hanging out in the camera store where I bought the camera. The staff was older and very experienced with the equipment and did not mind talking with me and correcting any mistakes I was making in my thought process or terminology in a professional and kind way.

I am glad I did not have to deal with some wet behind the ears kid that was younger than me and had 2 days of camera schooling and then stuck behind the counter to make sales and not provide service for the product.

[KeithKSR]

Back in the day when I invested in my first camera that had lots of settings and interchangeable lenses I spent some time hanging out in the camera store where I bought the camera. The staff was older and very experienced with the equipment and did not mind talking with me and correcting any mistakes I was making in my thought process or terminology in a professional and kind way.

I am glad I did not have to deal with some wet behind the ears kid that was younger than me and had 2 days of camera schooling and then stuck behind the counter to make sales and not provide service for the product.

I’ve still got my first SLR. It’s a Chinon I bought used from a friend who had upgraded for $150 in late 1982 or early 1983. It came with two screw in lenses. It was completely manual, but did have a built in meter that helped adjust the speed and aperture. At the time I was going to college and working at the Morehead State print shop. That gave me access to the print shop dark room and they allowed me to develop my black and white film and even use their enlarger to do my own prints. It was a really fun experience.

[dan_bgblue]

That gave me access to the print shop dark room and they allowed me to develop my black and white film and even use their enlarger to do my own prints. It was a really fun experience.

That would have been way cool. I was always told that the best way to learn about exposure metering was developing you own work. I kept a written log of the film ISO, camera shutter speed and f stop of all my work so that when I got the photos back from the lab 2 or 3 weeks later I could think thru the process and try to improve the next set of shots I took.

Lot different back then as there was the cost of a roll of unexposed film, shipping, then paying for developing, processing and printing. Depending on the type of film being used and the desired effects applied to the image, you could be spending a couple of dollars every time you clicked the shutter button without knowing whether the eventual image was going to be a keeper or a 5x7 piece of junk. That could be 24 dollars for a 12 exposure roll of film, especially if it was color film.

I still have my first SLR as well. Minolta XGM. I bought it, a hot shoe flash, and 3 lenses the month before our daughter was born. I have never regretted that purchase.

[KeithKSR]

That would have been way cool. I was always told that the best way to learn about exposure metering was developing you own work. I kept a written log of the film ISO, camera shutter speed and f stop of all my work so that when I got the photos back from the lab 2 or 3 weeks later I could think thru the process and try to improve the next set of shots I took.

Lot different back then as there was the cost of a roll of unexposed film, shipping, then paying for developing, processing and printing. Depending on the type of film being used and the desired effects applied to the image, you could be spending a couple of dollars every time you clicked the shutter button without knowing whether the eventual image was going to be a keeper or a 5x7 piece of junk. That could be 24 dollars for a 12 exposure roll of film, especially if it was color film.

I still have my first SLR as well. Minolta XGM. I bought it, a hot shoe flash, and 3 lenses the month before our daughter was born. I have never regretted that purchase.

My wife bought me a Minolta for. Christmas in the late 90s, I still have that camera also. I need a lens for it now, one of the grandkids dropped it and cracked the plastic on the lens, breaking the bayonet lugs off the lens.